Category Archives: Food and Wine

Judging a wine by its label a valid consumer choice

I have broken the first, the one-and-only, the golden rule of being a sommelier – never purchase wine because you like the label. I have broken this rule twice when it comes to this lovely Dolcetto di Dogliani, Pettirosso from … Continue reading

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Chionetti – dolcetto cru and that tremendo kind of wine

“When it comes to Dolcetto, you have to be a professional,” says Nicola Chionetti. And he adds that you have to be passionate about this variety. It’s difficult to grow and, he says, it’s “tremendo” to vinify, too. My first … Continue reading

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Don’t mention the ‘D’ word – in defence of Dolcetto

“It’s a blood pressure issue” my friend says at the mention of the dreaded ‘D’ word….. Dolcetto. And I can well believe it when I hear that Dolcetto is prone to disease, difficult to grow and difficult to vinify. The … Continue reading

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The great wine and grammar debate – barbera

I have been corrected – that it’s “IL barbera”, not “la”. I have heard that barbera is definitely female, to the point where there is even a book “La Barbera è femmina”, by Marzia Pinotti (I’ve yet to read it). … Continue reading

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Grandi Langhe 2019, day one

Introducing the 2015 Barolo vintage is certainly an exciting event for most people. I probably have no real right to be here and was certainly put in the “hangers-on” category by the girl at the door. I chose not to … Continue reading

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Ways with cugna – dessert recipe

Cugna….. I love the way even just the word feels in the mouth. The way it rolls around the ‘u’ and then opens onto the ‘a’. It promises for something hearty and I daresay this simple kind of Piedmontese mustard … Continue reading

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The Berkel

Only the Italians could reserve such reverence for a slicing machine. The Berkel sits quietly in its corner in our tasting room, beautiful and Ferrari red, all shiny chrome. A restored Berkel of grandeur, to be admired but not having … Continue reading

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Reborn Nascetta – white Barolo, 1

It was on a late summer visit to Elvio Cogno that I first tasted Nascetta – the local white Barolo grape variety that’s made a comeback in the middle of this red wine territory. Elvio Cogno as it turns out, … Continue reading

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